Santiago to Rome

There have been several enquiries from people interested in walking from Santiago to Rome.  One of the members of the CPR in fact did do this a few years ago.

 

As far as Arles, one can use the Santiago routes of Camino Frances, Camino Aragonese and then in France the Voie d’Arles.  These are well documented, good guides are available so that section of the route is not covered here (but see ‘Via Lourdes’ below).  When one reaches Arles, there is a choice of routes.  One can either proceed north east towards Montgenevre or go south east towards Menton.  Both of these routes join the Via Francigena which is covered elsewhere on this website so details will not be repeated here.  Below is given some information on the routes between Arles and the Via Francigena.

 

Via Lourdes

For those interested in a route via Lourdes after Somport there are a number of possibilities.  One could continue along the Voie d’Arles as far as Mauberguet then go south to Lourdes and return to the Camino the same way.  Alternatively one could ‘turn right’ after Somport and use one of the Voie de Piemont variants.  There is a high level route through the Col des Moines (2168 m, 7046 ft) which is very beautiful but not recommended in poor weather or if you are not a confident walker.  The alternative to this is the Col de Marie-Blanque (1035 m, 3364 ft).  These two routes merge at Louvie Juzon.  After Lourdes one can rejoin the Voie d’Arles at Mauberguet.  A guide to these routes is in preparation and will be available soon in the Members Only section.

 

The Menton Route

Note:  The notes below are based on the experiences of our member that walked that route.

 

The stretch from Arles to the Italian border is documented on a website belonging to one of the French St James Associations (see Links/About Routes).  From Arles it goes south towards Aix-enProvence, through St Maximin-la-Ste-Baume, Le Muy, reaches the Mediterranian coast at Frejus, turns inland again through Vence and then via Laghet returns to the coast at Roquebrune-Cap Martin and then on to Menton.

 

After Menton, at the time of walking the route there was no specific documentation of it but it seemed obvious that the Via Aurelia should be followed until it meets the Via Francigena at Sarzana.  This takes one along the Ligurian coast through San Remo, Savona, Genoa, Celle Ligure, Rapallo, Arcola and finally Sarzana.  If one wished, one could leave the coast at Genoa and go inland to  intercept the Via Francigena at Pontremoli.  There is now some documentation on the first 83 kms on the Imperia Province Tourist Information site (again see Links/About Routes)

 

Menton Route Notes

The Santiago Caminos in Spain are only signed in one direction - towards Santiago so it can sometimes be a challenge to follow the route ‘backwards’ as there are often waymarks coming out of the town/village going towards Santiago but not so many on the entrance to the town as one can see the town ahead and it is obvious which direction to take.  Therefore going in the opposite direction means there are not so many signs leaving the town.  One of the advantages of the popularity of the Camino Frances is that if one is stuck not knowing which direction to take, all one has to do is wait for a few minutes and a pilgrim will inevitably appear on the horizon!  However after Eunate the numbers drop dramatically so one is more reliant on guidebooks and signage.  (In France the Santiago route is a GR so is signed in both directions.)

 

After Arles, one continues through the flat, marshy Camargue region and then into Provence.  The documented French section after Arles used a combination of minor roads and GR routes where possible.  There are some waymarks but not anything like enough so the easiest solution was to plot a route using the IGN 1:100,000 maps.   As one approaches the Alps it gets a little hillier though one crosses them ‘at sea level’.  The route documented on the French website  avoids Monte Carlo which is a pity as a very picturesque,  leisure coastal walk has been constructed between Monte Carlo and Roquebrune.

 

After Menton the route is mostly flat but there are some surprising hilly sections!  Although you are following the Via Aurelia (Via A), very little is actually on road because the area is so developed.  Of course this means you are on pavement, but at least you are protected from the traffic.  Also there is now a motorway several kms inland so there is not as much traffic on the Via A as there used to be.  Along the coast there are a few pedestrianised sections which look as though they used to be a railway and these are very pleasant to walk on.  One can spend much of one’s time on the seafront but be warned if you are walking in the summer, it will be hot!.  It is usually possible to find a covered walkway through the town and ‘one street away from the seafront’ which provides shade and lots of opportunity for window shopping!  There are some stunning Churches and Basilicas to be seen and picturesque marinas.  Also that region of Italy seems to specialise in ‘trompe de l’oeil’ on the exteriors of buildings.

 

Genoa is a major port and it is worth spending a few days there.  At  Genoa one can go inland and take a route via Tribogna and San Colombano de Certenoli to meet the Via Francigena at Pontremoli, or follow a more coastal route and meet the Via Francigena at Sarzana.

 

Eating & Sleeping

In general there were no problems finding places to eat and sleep.  Given that this is not a well trodden pilgrim route, there was not a plethora of  basic, simple pilgrim accommodation, but there were a number of Monasteries and Convents along the way and some offered pilgrim hospitality (ie cheap basic accommodation) and others offered hospitality on more commercial terms but were still cheaper than hotels.  As with the Via Francigena you need to book in advance.   The Italian Riviera is highly populated and of course expensive, but there are plenty of campsites, so if you are travelling on a budget, carrying a tent is recommended.

 

The Montgenevre Route

We have no direct experience of this route but it is documented in the Vademecum published by the AIVF (see Guide Books & Maps/Guides-Via Francigena).  From Arles, it passes through St Remy, Tallard, Chorges, Vigneaux, crosses into Italy at Montgenevre, then through Turin and meets the Via Francigena at Vercelli.

 

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